Hotel has litre bottle of Gordon's in the bedroom, but no wifi.
To all those (including me) who do not know much about Aksum, it was the original capital of Ethiopia and a major civilisation from about AD1 for some 900 years, acting as the trading route between the Roman empire and India. It is a UNESCO world heritage site (where I am delighted to say that Liverpool Maritime City is also mentioned in the museum), and it is said that only 4% of the ancient city has been excavated. The major monuments immediately in evidence are the massive granite stellae that are indeed most impressive - beautifully carved, and weighing hundreds of tons, that were brought (somehow) from a quarry six kilometres away.
Our excellent guide had previously worked with the Cambridge University team in the 1990s when they were excavating part of this site, so really knew his stuff. One of the stellae was carried off to Italy by Mussolini and has only recently been returned. Then it was around some of the other excavated sites, including - of course - the Queen of Sheba's baths. In reality, I would imagine to have been a massive water cistern but in Ethiopia myth and legend are definitive history, and the emperors were descended from her visit to meet with Solomon in Jerusalem, so bearing the title of "the Lion of Judah".
In the afternoon, we went to see the new "cathedral" of St Mary of Zion, built by Haile Sealassie. The museum video said that it was inaugurated in the presence of QE II, and that the chandelier was donated by her. Then it was on to the house where the "ark of the covenant" is kept (again, total fact in Ethiopia). No member of the public is ever, ever, allowed entry. I remember Daniel Cruikshank trying to gain entry in his "treasures of the world" programme and, like us, failing dismally.
The museum is rather like a cross between the jewel room at the Tower of London (it seems that every emperor had a different crown) and the treasury of Canterbury cathedral (full of copes and ancient books) - but the dust!!!! In desperate, desperate need of an efficient curator. Please!!!!
We found a great restaurant for our evening meal. I chose curried goat from the menu and it was so good that, amidst cries of "you can't!", I ordered a second helping - whereupon the three others who had had the same also ordered seconds. Not a bad compliment to the chef.
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